Security Screens & Fly Screens
Canberra's best security screens, barrier screens & flyscreens
Stainless Steel Security Screens
To ensure the structural integrity required to deter intruders, the installation of stainless steel security screens is a highly disciplined, multi-stage process. Because these screens act as an active defensive barrier, they cannot be simply "popped in" like a standard insect screen.
Here is the installation process for stainless steel security screens:
Site measure up
Every screen is custom-built to match the specific aperture of your window or door frame.
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Precision Measurement: The installer maps out every millimeter of the existing frame/ opening ensuring the new screen will sit with minimal clearance.
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Squareness Check: Because building frames can shift or settle over time, the installer checks if the opening is "square." If the opening is uneven, the screen frame must be specially manufactured to compensate, ensuring a flush fit that leaves no gaps for intruders to leverage.
Preparing the Mounting Surface
The strength of the screen is only as good as the frame it is attached to.
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Clearing the Path: The installer removes old flyscreens or existing hardware that might interfere.
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Surface Cleaning: They thoroughly clean the surrounding window or door frame to ensure that any adhesives or fasteners will have maximum contact.
The Mounting Techniques
Depending on the specific brand and the nature of your home’s architecture, the installer will use one of two primary methods to fix the screen in place:
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Mechanical Fastening: This is the most common method. The screen frame is pre-drilled, and the installer uses specialized anti-tamper security screws to anchor the unit directly into the building's structural timber, brick, or steel framing. These screws are designed with unique heads that cannot be undone with standard household tools.
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Structural Adhesive Bonding: Many modern, sleek systems utilize high-performance structural glazing tapes (like 3M™ VHB™). This creates a permanent, invisible chemical bond between the mesh and the aluminum frame. By bonding the mesh across its entire length rather than just at screw points, the system distributes the force of an impact across the entire perimeter, making it incredibly difficult to "pull" the mesh out.
Hardware Fitting and Calibration
Once the frame is secured, the hardware brings the screen to life:
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Hinges and Closers: For doors, the installer attaches high-tensile hinges and, if requested, automatic door closers. These are often reinforced to prevent the door from being levered off its pins.
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Locking Mechanisms: They install multi-point locking systems. Unlike standard latches, these secure the screen to the frame at the top, middle, and bottom simultaneously, providing superior resistance against forced entry.
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Operational Tuning: This is a crucial step. The installer tests the screen through its full range of motion. They adjust the rollers (for sliding doors) or the tension of the hinges (for swinging doors) so the screen operates with a smooth, "heavy-duty" feel without binding against the frame.
Final Inspection and Compliance Check
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Gap Verification: The installer ensures the gap between the screen and the frame is minimal (typically under 5mm) to prevent prying tools from being inserted.
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Safety Audit: They ensure that the screen does not interfere with emergency egress (escape) requirements, particularly in bedrooms where quick exit during a fire is mandatory.
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Clean-up: Finally, the installer removes all drill filings, packaging, and debris, leaving the area ready for immediate use.
Perforated Barrier Screens
Perforated security screens offer a sleek, modern alternative to woven mesh. Instead of a fine wire weave, these screens are manufactured from a single, solid sheet of high-grade aluminum that has been precision-punched with thousands of tiny, uniform holes. This creates a "sheet metal" look that provides excellent privacy and ventilation while remaining incredibly difficult to cut or tear.
Here is the professional breakdown of how these screens are installed and why they differ from mesh systems.
What Defines a Perforated Screen
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The Material: Unlike woven mesh, which can potentially be pried apart under extreme stress, a perforated screen is a solid sheet of tempered aluminum. This makes it exceptionally rigid and resistant to physical impact.
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The Look: Because the aluminum sheet is thicker than a single wire strand, these screens often provide a "solid" appearance that offers better daytime privacy—people outside cannot easily see in, but you maintain a clear view out.
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Corrosion Resistance: Being made of solid aluminum, they are naturally resistant to rust, making them ideal for high-humidity or coastal environments.
The Specialized Installation Process
Because these screens are made of solid, rigid sheets rather than flexible wire, the installation method focuses on frame integration rather than mesh tensioning.
Custom Framing and Perimeter Fixing
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Frame Capture: The solid perforated sheet is cut to size and then "captured" inside a heavy-duty aluminum perimeter frame.
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Mechanical Wedge/Channel: The sheet is typically secured into the frame using a high-strength rubber or PVC wedge gasket, or a secondary aluminum "bead" that locks the sheet into place. This mechanical lock ensures the sheet cannot be pushed out of its frame even if struck with significant force.
Structural Mounting
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Direct-to-Structure: The installer fits the entire frame unit into your window or door opening. Using tamper-proof security screws, they anchor the frame directly into the home’s structural timber, brick, or steelwork.
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Hidden Fixings: To maintain a clean aesthetic, many perforated systems use "concealed fixings." The mounting screws are hidden behind a secondary cover strip on the frame, preventing intruders from even seeing how the screen is attached.
Hardware and Smooth Operation
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Hinged vs. Sliding: For perforated doors, the installer must account for the added weight of the solid aluminum sheet. They utilize reinforced commercial-grade hinges or heavy-duty sliding rollers specifically rated for the weight of the panel.
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Multi-Point Locking: As with mesh screens, the installer fits a multi-point lock. Because perforated sheets are so rigid, they pair perfectly with multi-point systems to create a unified, impenetrable barrier.
Precision Calibration
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Clearance Testing: Because the perforated sheet is solid, it has no "give." The installer must be extremely precise when measuring the aperture; if the screen is even slightly too large, the door will not close.
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Leveling: They adjust the screen's alignment relative to the main door or window frame to ensure it sits perfectly parallel, preventing the screen from rubbing against the existing hardware.
Why Choose Perforated Over Mesh?
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Privacy: The angle and size of the perforations make it significantly harder for outsiders to see into your home compared to woven mesh.
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Durability: Being a solid sheet, there is no risk of the "weave" becoming loose or unraveling over time.
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Aesthetics: Many homeowners prefer the architectural look of perforated aluminum, as it acts more like a solid shutter than a screen.
Diamond Grille Barrier Screens
Diamond grille security screens are a classic, cost-effective solution for residential security. Recognizable by their iconic crisscross aluminum pattern, these screens have been a staple in Australian homes for decades, providing a sturdy physical deterrent against intruders while allowing for airflow and insect protection.
How They Work
The "diamond" design is more than just a pattern; it is an engineering choice based on structural geometry.
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The Structure: The screen consists of a series of intersecting aluminum strips (the "grille") riveted or crimped together to form a diamond lattice. This structure is then encased within a heavy-duty aluminum perimeter frame.
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Impact Resistance: The strength of the diamond grille comes from the interlocking design, which disperses force across the entire frame. While not as "invisible" as stainless steel mesh, the aluminum lattice is exceptionally difficult to cut with standard hand tools.
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Infill: Traditionally, these grilles are backed with a standard fiberglass flyscreen mesh. This provides a secondary layer of protection against insects and debris while maintaining the primary security function of the grille.
Where They Can Be Installed
Diamond grilles are highly versatile and can be tailored to fit almost any residential opening:
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Doors: Frequently used for hinged and sliding entry doors, particularly in secondary access points like laundry or garage-to-house doors.
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Windows: Ideal for standard sliding windows, fixed glass windows, and hopper or awning-style windows.
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Enclosures: Often used to enclose porches or balconies where a budget-friendly but secure barrier is needed.
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Custom Shapes: Because the aluminum strips can be cut and joined, they can be fabricated for non-standard window shapes, such as arches or trapezoids.
How They Are Installed
The installation process for diamond grilles is straightforward but relies on securing the perimeter frame to the building’s structure.
Site Survey and Measurement
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Precision Fit: The installer measures the reveal (the inner space of the window/door frame).
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Hardware Planning: They determine whether the screen will be "face-fixed" (mounted to the outer surface of the trim) or "reveal-fixed" (mounted inside the window frame).
Perimeter Mounting
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Securing the Frame: The perimeter frame of the diamond grille is drilled and attached to the building structure.
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Fasteners: Installers use tamper-resistant security screws. These are specifically designed so that they can be tightened with a standard tool but are extremely difficult to unscrew or remove once installed, effectively locking the screen to the wall or frame.
Hardware and Operational Tuning
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Door Setup: For diamond grille doors, the installer attaches heavy-duty hinges (or sliding rollers) and a locking system.
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Locking: Most diamond grille doors utilize a single-point or triple-point lock. The strike plate is securely fastened to the door jamb to ensure that if the door is pushed, the load is transferred to the building's stud work.
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Alignment: The installer ensures the door is "square." Since diamond grilles are quite rigid, they must be aligned perfectly to prevent the door from scraping against the bottom track or floor.
Finishing
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Cleanup: The installer removes any metal shavings or debris from the drilling process and wipes down the aluminum to ensure a clean, professional finish.
Pet Proof Mesh Screens
Pet-proof mesh (often called "Pet Screen") is a heavy-duty, vinyl-coated polyester screening specifically engineered to withstand the wear and tear of household pets. Unlike standard fiberglass or aluminum mesh, which can easily be shredded by claws, pet-proof mesh is designed for high-impact resistance and durability.
What is Pet-Proof Mesh and How Does It Work?
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Material Composition: It is constructed from a high-strength, vinyl-coated polyester yarn. This makes the material significantly thicker and more resilient than standard insect screens.
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The "Weave" Technology: The mesh features a tighter, more robust weave that provides increased tensile strength. Because it is flexible rather than rigid, it absorbs the kinetic energy of a pet jumping or scratching against it, causing the material to "give" slightly rather than tearing.
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Visibility and Airflow: Despite its thickness, pet-proof mesh is designed to maintain good outward visibility and airflow. While it is slightly darker and denser than standard flyscreen, it effectively keeps insects out while standing up to the constant assault of paws and claws.
The Process: Removing Old Mesh and Replacing with Pet-Proof Mesh
Replacing standard mesh with pet-proof material requires a bit more force and precision, as the material is heavier and stiffer.
Preparation and Disassembly
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Remove the Frame: The screen frame (window or door) is removed from the building. The installer lays it on a flat, padded surface to prevent scratching the frame.
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Remove the Old Spline: A professional uses a pick tool to pry the end of the existing spline (the rubber or plastic cord that holds the mesh in place) out of the frame channel. The old mesh and spline are then discarded.
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Channel Cleaning: The frame’s channel is thoroughly cleaned of old dust, debris, and stubborn bits of old spline to ensure the new material will seat perfectly.
Measuring and Cutting
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Sizing: The pet-proof mesh is unrolled and cut to size, typically leaving an extra 2–3 inches of material on all sides to allow for gripping during the installation process.
Installation (The "Tensioning" Phase)
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Setting the Mesh: The new mesh is laid over the frame. Because pet-proof mesh is stiffer, the installer must ensure it is perfectly square and centered.
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Splining: Using a professional spline roller, the installer pushes the new, slightly thinner spline into the channel, trapping the mesh as they go.
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Pro Tip: For pet-proof mesh, the installer must maintain consistent tension. If the mesh is too loose, it will look wrinkled; if it is too tight, it can warp the aluminum frame.
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Trimming: Once the spline is fully seated around all four sides, a sharp utility knife is used to trim the excess mesh along the outer edge of the frame.
Final Inspection and Re-installation
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Tightness Check: The installer gives the mesh a firm press to ensure it is secure and hasn't pulled out of the channel at the corners.
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Re-hanging: The screen is re-inserted into the window or door track. The installer tests the sliding or opening motion one last time to ensure no debris is obstructing the track and that the screen operates smoothly.
Standard Mesh Window Screens
When replacing standard window flyscreens, you have two primary material choices: Fiberglass and Aluminum. While both serve the same purpose of keeping insects out while letting air in, they have distinct characteristics that affect their durability, appearance, and installation.
Here is the breakdown of the differences and the professional replacement process.
The Key Differences
FeatureFiberglass MeshAluminum Mesh
DurabilityFlexible, won't dent or crease.Rigid, can dent or crease permanently.
LongevityCan become brittle after years of sun exposure.Highly durable, does not degrade in UV light.
AppearanceSoft, matte finish; less visible from the street.Metallic/bright finish; more visible.
CorrosionWill not rust or corrode.Can oxidize or corrode in salt/coastal air.
InstallationEasier for DIY; more forgiving.Requires high precision; very easy to wrinkle.
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Fiberglass Mesh: This is the industry standard for most homes. It is a vinyl-coated fiberglass yarn. It is popular because if you accidentally push against it, it simply bounces back into shape. It is, however, susceptible to becoming brittle and tearing after several years of intense Australian sun.
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Aluminum Mesh: This is a classic, heavy-duty choice. It is much stronger and holds its shape exceptionally well over long periods. However, because it is metal, it is unforgiving—if it gets a crease or a dent, it stays there forever. It is also more prone to "bird pecking" or "cat clawing" in some instances, and it can eventually corrode if you live in a coastal area with high salt content in the air.
The Professional Replacement Process
Regardless of whether you choose fiberglass or aluminum, the process for replacing the mesh in your screen frame is similar, though the tensioning technique varies slightly.
Preparation and Disassembly
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Remove the Frame: The screen is removed from the window track and placed on a flat, clean surface.
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Remove Spline and Old Mesh: A hook or pick tool is used to remove the old spline (the rubber cord). The old mesh is then lifted out.
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Clean the Channel: The frame's groove (the rebate) is thoroughly cleaned. Removing old debris is critical for aluminum mesh, as any grit trapped in the channel can cause the metal mesh to tear during installation.
Measuring and Positioning
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Cutting: The new mesh is cut to size with a 25mm–50mm overhang on all sides.
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Centering: The mesh is laid over the frame. For aluminum mesh, extra care is taken to ensure the weave pattern is perfectly straight, as crooked aluminum mesh is visually very obvious.
The Tensioning Phase (The Main Difference)
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Fiberglass: The installer uses a spline roller to push the spline in, pulling the mesh with light, steady pressure to get it "drum-tight." Fiberglass has a bit of "stretch," making it very easy to get a perfect finish.
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Aluminum: This requires more skill. Because aluminum does not stretch, you cannot pull it too hard, or you will bow the frame inward. The installer uses a specialized roller and ensures the mesh is perfectly aligned before locking it into the channel. It requires a gentle, rhythmic hand to avoid creating permanent "waves" in the metal.
Trimming and Finishing
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Trimming: A sharp utility knife is used to trim the excess.
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Crucial Step for Aluminum: When trimming aluminum mesh, the blade must be very sharp. If the blade is dull, it will snag the metal wires rather than cutting them, leading to jagged, sharp edges that can scratch your window frames.
Inspection and Re-installation
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Final Check: The installer checks the corners to ensure the spline is seated deep and that the mesh hasn't pulled away.
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Re-hanging: The frame is carefully slotted back into the tracks.
